Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese 23

Many people remark that visiting with Alfred and Rolf Merkelbach at their home in Urzig is like traveling into the past; not much has changed here in 50 years, including the brothers approach to winemaking. Well into their seventies, Alfred and Rolf still tend the vines and make the wines with little help: heading into the steep Wurzgarten and Treppchen to tie the posts, harvest, and then even racking off the large fuders they use for fermentation and blending. The vineyard holdings of this tiny, 1 hectare estate are divided between the Urziger Wurzgarten, Erdener Treppchen, and Kinheimer Rosenberg. Wine cultivation is ancient on these sites, lying just off the Mosel between Urzig and Erden is the excavation of a Roman press house. When most of the Urziger Wurzgarten vineyards were replanted during the re-alignment of the vineyards (called Flurbereinigung), Merkelbachs vines remained on original rootstock, with an average vine age of 45 years. The Merkelbachs are firm believers in tradition, and while changes in climate and style preferences have pushed up must weights and produced profoundly riper wines, the brothers craft wines of a style more typical to an era long forgotten. Kabinetten are still refreshing, Spatlesen taste like Spatlesen, and oechsle levels rarely exceed the Pradikat range. The Merkelbachs vinify each parcel separately, each fuder representing a different parcel. Because of their tiny cellar, their pradikat wines will never be a blend of any more than 2 parcels together, indicated by the fuder numbers on the labels AP code. VINOUS Score 94 Date 2024-12-17 "The 2023 Riesling rziger Wurzgarten Urgluck Auslese was picked in the eponymous parcel at the bottom of the slope. The gentle savor of the red soil colors everything with notions of petrichor, red apple peel and crushed peppery herb. The palate is vividly fruity yet gentle, fresh and bright, backed with lovely savor. Beautiful length and a very light touch make this an exceptional experience."