Chateau Graville-Lacoste Graves Blanc 23

From the importer: Bordeaux is often thought of as red-wine territory. One of Frances most renowned wine regions, it boasts many of the most coveted Cabernets and Merlots in the world. Yet this slice of the countrys Atlantic coast also produces very worthy whites that are perfect as aperitifs or paired with the local catch, like cod. If you want to sample the regions best blancs, look no further than Graves, an appellation south of the left banks prestigious chateaux. Although the view here is not as awe-inspiring as it is in various other wine regionsBordeaux is relatively flat the ground is hallowed, with clay-and-limestone soils that are ideal for growing Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle: grapes that are used for both sweet Sauternes and dry Graves. All three varieties feature in this white from Herve Dubourdieus Chateau Graville-Lacoste. Because Herves vines are five decades old and therefore have access to deep water reserves, and because their location is in one of Gravess cooler microclimates, this blanc is incredibly consistent, year in and year out: crisp, fresh, and refreshing with notes of citrus, cut grass, and subtle tropical fruits. It remains among the best values in all of France and a wonderful expression of Bordeauxs white-wine possibilities. Tom Wolf (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants)