Situated in Trigny, a village that shares the same Massif de St. Thierry terroir as Chartogne-Taillet, this producer has quietly developed a following in France, culminating in some top ratings in the Guide Hachette. Thierry Forest (after whom the local mountain is not named) is an unassuming but serious wine-grower who makes authentic, forceful champagnes that exemplify all we have come to love about the récoltants. Particularly notable is his preference for aging his wines much longer than is the norm before release. Almost half the grapes now come from the Premier Cru village of Éceuil, home of his wife Gracianne Marié. Otherwise, they have no fewer than 86 parcels distributed in four communes, three of which are Premier Crus. The average age of their vines is 40 years, they have practiced the planting of grass between rows for 35 years, and all grapes are harvested by hand. How thrilling that Thierry’s current vintage is the legendary 2008, when others are releasing their 2015 wines. An equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, entirely from the Écueil holdings, this is a grand, dry champagne, gingery and long, with prodigious depth of flavor.