Roselyn Gavoty is the eighth generation to helm her family’s domaine, a former Roman-era farm. The family has worked the land without synthetic chemicals for decades, obtaining organic certification in recent years. Roselyn blends her rosé masterfully combining equal parts Grenache and Cinsault (primarily), with a touch of Carignan. More vinuous than most Provencal roses, the Grand Classique fruit macerates for several hours before pressing, and the saignée and first-press juice are vinified separately to be blended later on to achieve an exquisite balance between freshness and depth. Roselyn is an opinionated old soul, bemoaning rosés' lowly status as a “boisson” (“drink”) gulped down mindlessly by hordes of “consommateurs mouton” (“sheep consumers”). Whereas much currently trendy Provence rosé gets by on being light enough in color and innocuous enough in flavor, Gavoty’s are first and foremost wines—refreshing in spirit as befits the appellation, to be sure, but resonant and thought-provoking as well, with notably gorgeous textures. In fact, Roselyn considers texture to be the most important element in great Côtes de Provence rosé, and her wines uniformly hit bullseyes in that department. A lot of rosés dash quickly down the throat, sprinkling a few candied red fruits along the way; Gavoty’s caress the palate, with rich but nimble fruit fused to an underlying salinity, and finishes that blossom and linger. This is the kind of rosé that ignited interest in the appellation in the first place! How satisfying it is to see that such wine still exists, and in such dazzling fashion as at Domaine Gavoty.