Roselyn Gavoty is the eighth generation of Gavoty to helm her family’s domaine since her ancestor Philémon acquired it in 1806. Domaine Gavoty encompasses 50 hectares of vines on a Roman-era farm in the commune of Cabasse called Campdumy (“harvest fields” in old Provençal), situated along the snaking Issole River in the northwestern sector of the Côtes de Provence appellation. Surrounded by oak and pine forests and bordered by the Issole, Gavoty is a polycultural farm encompassing 110 hectares in total, and the family has worked the land without synthetic chemicals for decades, obtaining organic certification in recent years.
Whereas much currently trendy Provence rosé gets by on being light enough in color and innocuous enough in flavor, Gavoty’s are first and foremost wines—refreshing in spirit as befits the appellation, to be sure, but resonant and thought-provoking as well, with notably gorgeous textures. In fact, Roselyn considers texture to be the most important element in great Côtes de Provence rosé, and her wines uniformly hit bullseyes in that department. A lot of rosés dash quickly down the throat, sprinkling a few candied red fruits along the way; Gavoty’s caress the palate, with rich but nimble fruit fused to an underlying salinity, and finishes that blossom and linger. This is the kind of rosé that ignited interest in the appellation in the first place! How satisfying it is to see that such wine still exists, and in such dazzling fashion as at Domaine Gavoty.
Gavoty’s “Grand Classique” combines Grenache and Cinsault in roughly equal proportions, with Carignan playing a minor role which varies based on the vintage’s character. Rather than being pressed immediately after harvest by rote as many Provence rosés are, “Grand Classique”—as well as “Clarendon” below—macerates for several hours before pressing, and the saignée and first-press juice are vinified separately. This allows Roselyn the flexibility to blend the more succulent and tender saignée with the more angular and architectural press juice in a manner to achieve the precise textural qualities she seeks in her wines. “Grand Classique” displays an uncanny equilibrium, with racy acidity wed to gleaming fruits that are just the right amount of vinous, all buttressed by an elegant, mouthwatering texture that speaks both to domaine’s healthy fruit and to Roselyn’s consummate blending skills.