The Moulin de Gassac is the side project of the Languedoc’s storied Mas de Daumas Gassac estate. Employing exclusively organic fruit from carefully selected sources, the Moulin has fashioned a superb Picpoul that lives up to its reputation as the Muscadet of the South. A bright lemon-gold in the glass, the Moulin’s Picpoul casts smoky, briny lemon aromas followed by crisp suggestions of Meyer lemon, fennel and green pear. Textured like a fine Chablis, the wine juxtaposes fresh citrus fruits with a juicy palate presence buoyed by superb acidity. Long and layered way beyond its price tag, the Moulin de Gassac’s Picpoul sets a new benchmark for the genre and will be a lovely foil now and over the coming year for with delicate white-fleshed fish dishes, grilled and sautéed zucchini, calamari, periwinkles and oysters.