Juliénas is perhaps the most diverse of Beaujolais’s ten crus, making it difficult to generalize about the character of its wine. Soils range from granite to schist with pockets of clay, sand, and alluvial deposits, while a wealth of different exposures and elevations also contribute to its countless possible expressions of the Gamay grape. Site is therefore crucial, and the hill of Beauvernay is certainly among the top vineyards in the appellation. Cédric Chignard inherited this small plot of land from his mother, and the old vines here now produce a fine companion to the lovely Fleurie upon which Michel, Cédric’s father, built the domaine’s reputation. At high altitude on steep slopes of schist-like blue volcanic stone, Beauvernay yields concentrated fruit with racy acidity and an intense mineral backbone—a vin de terroir if there ever was one. An electric lightning bolt of Gamay, this Beaujolais can be enjoyed today or aged for several years.